Travel - Illustrious Energy

An experience in old world style at The Peninsula Hotel, Kowloon, Hong Kong

By Shelley- Maree Cassidy, Photography by Grant Sheehan

The handsome vintage 1934 Rolls-Royce Phantom II drawn up beside the hotel is kept polished and pristine. Its great age merely makes it all the more valuable. The pride of the fleet, its distinguished appearance earns admiring glances. But it is not just a showpiece; rather a working member of a regiment of younger Rolls-Royces, 14 Silver Spurs all painted in a distinctive shade known as ‘Peninsula green’, a colour unique to the Peninsula Hotel, where they are the transport of choice. Guests can settle back in their luxurious interiors and travel to or from the airport in a gracious style to which some may already be accustomed, and that others will enjoy as a special treat. Or you may prefer a more modern mode. In that case, by helicopter direct to the 28th floor can be your arrival and departure point, where you will be ushered through to the privacy and comfort of the heli-passenger-only reception.

The more usual entry point is through the front doors. Coolness and warmth mix like an ocean current, from the moment when the white-clad smiling pageboy opens the door and you leave the sultry heat, exchanging it for the regulated temperature and dignified elegance of the Peninsula lobby. The sense of moving from a vibrant, even chaotic city outside to a calm and soothing environment is palpable. Entering the massive gilded lobby, you are greeted by the sight of a grand old hotel still in its heyday.

Classic colonial it may be, but the luxurious space of its foyer alone is impressive and its old-world decorativeness beautiful. First opened in 1928, then the first and only luxury hotel in Hong Kong, now the oldest, it is still its’ grandest. The atmosphere is not hushed but courtly, graciously welcoming you into its portals. Afternoon tea is served in the lobby, an out-of-Empire custom that attracts so many people that every day 1000 scones are baked as one of the expected traditional comestibles.

 Sandwiches and cakes are delivered on tiered stands by quietly attentive waiters to tables set with silverware and china, a special blend from the Peninsula tea collection is poured; tea taken in a relaxed elegant atmosphere that makes it a quite special and for many a novel experience.
It is so popular that orderly queues begin to form discreetly behind the potted palms quite soon after midday. However, dignified does not mean dull. While retaining its old-style glamour, the Peninsula has kept pace with contemporary standards. From the standard but deluxe guest rooms through to the stunning suites, furnishings and fittings should meet and likely exceed the expectations of the most discerning guests. Classy décor, state of the art technology, and often a spectacular view of one of the world’s most stunning cityscapes are a heady mix. You can go higher, to the rooftop, for drinks, dinner and dancing at Felix. Created by theatrical designer Philippe Starck, it is a clever contemporary contrast to the classic lobby far below and an example of the adaptive skills of the Peninsula.

Of course, there is a state-of-the art-spa, and fitness centre with a glamorous pool; both play a part of the Peninsula Wellness lifestyle programme offered as an antidote to the stress and strains caused by the hectic pace of modern life.  There are six different restaurants in the hotel, all-day dining in the Lobby, and you can have a culinary experience at the Peninsula Academy; cooking classes taught by the hotel’s chefs. This is a city seething with shops, but you could elect to just stay within the Peninsula Arcade; it has 100 shops under the one roof. High-end labels like Prada, Louis Vuitton, Manolo Blahnik and the local-gone-global Shanghai Tang; many specialties stores too, from opticians to arts, crafts and antiques.

Outside, there are multiple-choice attractions in this hectic city. Visit the flower and bird markets, the Magic Kingdom of Disneyland; day-trip into mainland China, take the Star Ferry to Central and Aberdeen Harbour to the giant floating Jumbo Restaurant or hydrofoil across to casino-laden Macau. Just over the road are the Space Museum and the Avenue of Stars; stars of stage and screen that is. A bronze Bruce Lee is the leading light.

When you return from your excursion, glad to be back in this venerable hotel, you might like to consider this fact. The Peninsula’s team of pageboys open the large double glass doors about 4000 times a day.

Photo: Statue  of Bruce Lee, Kowloon water front