As soon as one delves into the glories of wine, it becomes greatly apparent that there is a world far beyond the 20 or so fashionable grape varieties that we are most used to in New Zealand. There are thousands of grape varietals in the world, and their origins read something like a mysterious and incestuous soap opera.

Lifting the blood sugars in Martinborough is ‘old school’ producer Shawn Brown of Muirlea Rise – in my opinion, the best producer of Martinborough’s controversial and mysterious ‘Mad Vine’.

This mystery grape is rumoured to have turned up during the 1970s – probably introduced illegally to Martinborough as a cutting – from who knows where. Actually Shawn proudly states that he knows who introduced it, that the person is still alive, but that person Isn't saying anything to anybody about it. And neither is Shawn.

This grape that looks and tastes nothing at all like Syrah, was thought to be a relative of Syrah, such as Petite Syrah or Durif. Others believe that it is a man made grape with origins tied to famous hybridist Albert Seibel (1844-1936), a clone of some type or perhaps even a hybrid of a hybrid of a hybrid…

The grape came to full attention during the 1990s when Walker Estate of Martinborough won a gold medal for its Syrah. Some people must have been upset by this. The wine was DNA tested and discovered not to be Syrah or any such related varietal, or for that matter any varietal that anybody knew at all. Walker Estate had to give their gold medal back.

The mystery grape is quite prolific and distinct to Martinborough. Since the Walker controversy, you’ll find it labelled under such names as ‘Curieux’ by Murdoch James Estate, ‘RedRooster’ by Vynfields and ‘Mareth’ by Muirlea Rise.

At Muirlea Rise, the vine was first planted (as Syrah) by Shawn’s Dad, Willie Brown, in1987. Generally, the Mad Vine is much more caramel/confectionery-like than Syrah, with a vibrant acidity and high fruit sweetness. It is also extremely thick skinned, with hard berries formed on huge, long bunches. Shawn blends his Mad Vine with Cabernet Sauvignon and bottles it under the Mareth label (named after his grandmothers, Mary and Ethel).

While a ‘bit famous’ in Martinborough for having a touch of brettanomyces in his wine – aspoilage yeast that causes funky, barnyard characters – a wine absent of faults does not necessarily imply virtue. Combined with Shawn’s oxidative wine making style, both the Mareth and its heavenly fortified counterpart, the Apres,achieve a Yin-Yang balance of sweet, caramelised characters with a lovely, earthy, rich, funky savouriness.

These are two superb wines well worth the trip to the Wairarapa or to your local passionate wine retailer to sample and procure. You’ll be imbibing on a bit of New Zealand’s grape-growing mystery! And when you take the trip to Martinborough, you have the opportunity to talk with such advocates of off-beat, lesser-known, mysterious and infamous grape varietals, like Shawn Brown.

Muirlea Rise Mareth1999

Rough and seductive, the nose is reminiscent of rich dusty brick, cedar and wood spice. A product of 50% Mad Vine and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, the vintage of 1999 was over cast and cooler, helping with the more savoury characteristics of this wine. Earthy oak and a dark rich brew of stewed black plums, darkened soil and dried cranberry on the palate. The presence of brett in the wine has become a perfect match to the lush and vibrant fruit, balancing the barnyard hints with rich berry glints. Complex and integrated, this brooding beauty will cellar well for a long time yet!

Muirlea Rise Apres NV

Again a blend of 50% Mad Vine and 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is the Nigella Lawson of desert wine – a mysterious Gemini balance of fresh, lithe, tannin and linear acidity. Luscious and voluptuous, the nose entices one with fantasies of Macintosh toffees (the mint and coconut ones!). The palate is to die for! Syrupy and moreish, candied confectionary notes are harmonised by dense purple fruit, violets and blood red roses.